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Model Airplane plan Restoration

May 29th, 2010 Jim Wagoner 2 comments

Banner Executive - 40in FF SpScale Rubber, cabin-type, Berkeley kit (low-res)To many, model airplane plans are an art in themselves. Collecting, building from, dreaming about a model you wish to build or framing them and hanging them on the wall, we all have our reasons for our love of plans.

As time moves forward, many plans have been lost do to damage or neglect. Which brings us to the topic at hand, restoration and preservation of old plans. It has recently come to my attention of the outstanding efforts of Rufus Carswell to not only restore, but to share his techniques for plan restoration. Using basic modern equipment that many of us already have, Mr. Carswell has prepared a how to for all of us so that we too can restore old plans that might otherwise be lost.

With Mr. Carswells permission, the following is published for all to enjoy and benefit from. If you would like to download a pdf version for viewing and/or printing. Click on this link Download

Samples of Mr. Carswells work can be downloaded from these links.

Ace Whiteman Air King Plan

Aeronca K 54″ Version

Chief towline Glider

Restoring & Preparing Plans Using Photoshop

by

Rufus Carswell

Atlanta, Georgia, U.S.A.

After more than ten years and over four thousand five hundred plans prepared and restored in Photoshop I have developed a procedure that gives the best plans in the smallest file size. Many have asked that I help them learn how to do this so I have prepared written step-by-step directions covering the procedure.

Read more…

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The Troll – Revisited

October 28th, 2009 Jim Wagoner 1 comment

Troll

The Troll is a 3D plane that has been around for a few years. First flown in 2004, it is deserving of yet another look. By today’s standards with the rapid advancements in electric RC, the Troll is an old man. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Designed by J. C. Spillmann, the Troll has proven to be a very capable 3D flier.  It’s name “Troll” is derived from one of the maneuvers it excels at, the torque roll, or T-roll.

Constructed of Depron foam, the Troll differs from other “flat foamies” in it’s design by having a full fuselage. This gives a lot of strength yet keeps the airframe light. Either 3mm, 6mm or even a combination of the two can be used in it’s construction.  Depending on the equipment used the Troll can be kept very light for indoor flying. If flown outdoors, heavier gear can be installed. This gives the builder/pilot a lot of leeway as far as using whatever equipment is on hand and still end up with a respectable airframe.

To the best of my knowledge, the Troll has never been released as a kit so it’s up to the individual to construct their own. The plans are available from http://www.amjd.ch/ with construction notes to assist. As far as models go there is nothing difficult about building a Troll. The structure is plenty strong with reinforcements in the right places. The fuselage is a basic box structure with 1/16 balsa to reinforce the cabanes. Spars can be used in the wings but a good alternative is to use 6mm for the wings with Spectrex IV braided fishing line for flying and landing wires. This has shown to be very light and strong for any maneuver.

As straight forward as the construction is the real treat is in the flying. Slow flight, harriers, rolling 360s, hovering, you name it the Troll is a excellent all around plane.  You will find that the Troll is one of those planes that you always want to have around for flying at any time, ready at a moments notice. If your looking for your next project, take a look at the Troll.

Download plan —> Link to Troll PDF.

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Handy Tool…The Balsa Stripper for the RC Modeler

October 14th, 2009 Jim Wagoner 3 comments

Master Airscrew Balsa Stripper

Balsa Stripper

If you are a seasoned scratch builder, you know all about the balsa stripper. If you are just starting out in RC models you may wonder what a balsa stripper is. Quite simply a balsa stripper is a tool that is used to cut strips from a sheet of balsa. Even if you do not build your own models the day will come when you have a slightly less than graceful landing with one of your favorite models. Having a balsa stripper is a great way to cut the size wood you need to accomplish the repairs that will have to be made. Any scraps of sheet balsa you have laying around can be turned into good usable wood for building or repair, thus saving you money and needless trips to the hobby shop to buy strip wood.

The stripper itself is made up of a small fence and adjustable knife blade used for cutting, usually a #11 xacto blade. Once the blade is adjusted to the thickness needed, the stripper is pulled along the straight edge of the balsa sheet cutting the desired strip of wood. The down side of using a stripper is sometimes on a harder/thicker sheet of balsa, the blade may flex and wander depending on the grain of the wood. What I do is set the height of the blade to half the thickness of the wood and pull the cutter along the straight side of the balsa. I then turn the sheet balsa over and repeat the pass on the opposite side completing the cut. This minimizes the chance of the blade wandering.

There are various brands of balsa strippers on the market. I have used the Master Airscrew Balsa Stripper for a number of years and have been very satisfied with the results. Some people have even made there own strippers  with fully adjustable blades. A simple alternative is to make one non adjustable of the most common size strips that you use. This is a good choice if you strip a lot of the same size wood. The bad side is you are limited to just the one size. Making a few different size strippers might be an answer depending on the size demand.

To make you own, start with a small block of wood about four inches long. Glue on a shim the thickness you would like to cut and attach a single edge razor blade at about a 30 degree angle with a small flat head wood screw . Before you know it, you will have more wood cut to size than you can use.

100_8965

The Home Made Balsa Stripper

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Preparing files for the laser cutter.

October 9th, 2009 Jim Wagoner 3 comments

Laser cutting has made the art of model airplane construction easier. It can give the builder the quality and precision to construct an accurate model. Why do I say can? Well, preparing the file for cutting is just as important as a good glue joint. The time spent with your file is worth the end result. Once you have your file, it can be used to cut another set of parts just as accurately as the first or, you can mod it for your next project.

Ok, you just spent your vacation from work designing your dream plane on your favorite CAD software. Now what? What needs to be done? There are a few things that a builder needs to do to prepare their parts to be cut. First thing check to make sure your cutting service you choose can cut the size and thickness you need. Various services have different size cutting tables so see if there are any limitations.

To prepare your file you should remove any text from the drawing and ensure that all lines are on the same layer. (We’ll cover labeling your parts later) Also ensure that all lines are of the “continuous” type. Files should be saved in the industry standard “.DXF.” Contact your laser cutting service to see if they require any special instructions that need to be followed with your file.

For our example here we will be using a set of wing ribs for a sport plane based on the Ugly Stick. I will be using Qcad for this exercise but feel free to sub in your favorite software. The goal is to have the parts to be cut, laid out on the material to be cut. Some things to consider when doing this is grain orientation of the wood and reducing waste.

1 blueprint

The ribs here are to be setup to be cut on a sheet of balsa 3”x36”. The first thing I do is copy the rib to a blank page into Qcad. I then create a second temporary layer to draw the 3”x36” balsa sheet on, to use as a reference. This is done so you can visually see that the parts actually fit on the sheet. Create this virtual Balsa sheet in the 00 or home position.

2 R1rib

Now that we can see where the ribs go, we need to copy and paste multiple copies into position on our “balsa”. For this model we need 8 of the R1 ribs. Again take note of the grain and try to save material where you can. Leave 1/8” minimum around the sheet perimeter and between the parts.

3 copying

4 sheet

5 complete

Once the ribs are in position, the “balsa” on our temporary layer can be removed. Save your file and it’s basically ready to be sent to the cutter. Remember one sheet one file. If you have two different sheets to cut make two files.

Lets touch on labeling parts. What I do is setup the text in another layer on the Cad drawing. This will be on another layer separate from the ribs. With the software I’m using it’s easier to label the part first, adjust the power on the laser, then cut the parts out. There are services that can label and cut in one pass. Again check with your laser cutting service to see what they require..

There are a few things we will look at now. Some services require tabs be left on your parts so they won’t fall out of the sheet when cut. Check with your cutting service and adjust your file as needed. They typically would like two per part about 1/8” running with the grain. Some services will cut without tabs if you don’t want them though.

One question I get is what if the part has to be exact size? Whenever something is cut out, be it with a laser, router, tablesaw or any cutting tool. There has to be allowance for the kerf of the cutter or the part will be the wrong size. The laser I use has an .011 kerf. The software for the cutter allows tool offset to compensate for the width of the cut. That way if you have a 1/4” spar in a rib, you can design your rib with 1/4” cutout to accept the spar. Once cut out, the spar will be a good fit in the rib. So when designing your aircraft make your parts the exact size needed.

Now that the laser cutting service has your file, what do they do with it? For the software and cutter we are using, the file needs to be converted to G-code. This is the format the machine needs to cut the parts. For this I use Deskam2000. This is where the offset for the kerf is set if needed, speed of the laser, adding text and various other settings if needed. Once the file is saved as a .dnc, the file can be loaded into the computer controlling the laser and the cut can be made.

The next few photos show the laser cutting process of the ribs that were
prepared in our example.

10 laseraction

16 closeup15 completecut

I hope this has shed some light on what it takes to prepare your file for cutting. The first time you try it it might seem a little involved. Once you do it a few times though you’ll have all your parts ready to be laser cut in no time.

Jim Wagoner

jtechlaser.com

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